What if I told you that in just four hours you could be eating a fresh shrimp taco with your feet in the Sea of Cortez? In the same amount of time it would take you to drive to Las Vegas, you could be south of the border in Baja California. It’s safe and easy and one of my favorite places
on Earth.
I’ve been driving to Baja for most of my life, to camp, surf and go fishing.
Each side of the peninsula offers something special. On the Pacific coast, where Southern Californians go for the surf, I’ve also pet gray whales and swum with whale sharks among many other fun things. But here in the desert, we’re fairly close to the Sea of Cortez and a sleepy little fishing village called San Felipe, famous for its shrimp fleets. This narrow, 1,000-mile-long pristine sea separates Baja from mainland México. Jacques Cousteau once described the Sea of Cortez as the “world’s aquarium” and the “Galapagos of North America.” If you like it quiet, and a warm ocean with no waves, then this is your kind of place.
A dirt road off of Hwy. 5 leads to expansive salt flats hugged by crystal green water. | Photo by Ashley Breeding
I head east on I-10 and merge south onto Hwy. 86, which runs along the Salton Sea and passes through the small farming town of Westmoreland — one of the world’s richest farming areas and a great place to stop for a date shake and some locally made honey. A few miles past town, a left onto Highway 111 takes you straight into Calexico (the United States side of the border) and Mexicali (on the México side).
A sign that reads “Last U.S. exit” marks the Mexican port of entry. Customs use a random system for inspections here — as long as you’re not bringing weapons or illegal drugs (weed included, folks), you’ve got nothing to worry about.
Staying in the middle lane, I follow all signs to Rio Hardy, San Felipe or Hwy. 5. This drive is as beautiful as our destination, running through farmlands and mountains, past the Rio Hardy River and over the dry lake of the Laguna Salada. I take a short detour down a dirt road to the salt flats, where crystal green water meets salt deposits. From a distance it looks like ice and snow.
About 90 miles from the border, I pass the turnoff to Highway 3/Ensenada and arrive at a security checkpoint. Most of the time the armed guards will ask where you’re going and wave you through — this time they have us hop out and search my truck. Again, if you’re not carrying anything illegal, there’s nothing to worry about. They’re here for your safety.
Continuing south, the sparkling blue sea and beachfront communities come into view. The largest, El Dorado Ranch, followed by large white twin arches, mark the northern stretch of San Felipe. Since I’ll spend a lot of time on the road these next few days, I stop at the Calimax supermarket for some water, snacks and cerveza.
I’ve chosen to stay at the San Felipe Marina Resort (about a five-minute trip south of the Malecón) this trip because I’m looking for a peaceful getaway. Tucked away on the beach, it’s quieter than most other hotels and the rooms have private patios that overlook the sea. It’s a bit pricier than the others, but don’t be afraid to ask for a discount — I always do! (www.sanfelipemarinaresort.com.mx)
San Felipe has accommodations a plenty, including small hotels, bed and breakfasts, RV parks, home and condo rentals, and camping sites. I like to find rentals at airbnb or VRBO, and also recommend Hotel El Cortez www.elcortezsanfelipebaja.com — even when I don’t stay here, I go for the food. Its beachfront patio is my top spot for breakfast, especially on Sundays when it offers a buffet of regional cuisine (try the stingray machaca and eggs, a local favorite).
In the afternoon, I head to Punta Estrella, an awesome “point” about 15 minutes south of my hotel. It’s an ideal place to camp, offering cabanas with barbecues and plenty of space for RVs and tent camping. Restrooms are a nice addition to its otherwise rustic appeal. I come to have a beer, swim in the sea and enjoy the solitude — many times you’ll have the beach all to yourself here. Minus the patrol people, who will come to collect — so make sure you’ve got about $10 handy.
Sun-kissed, salty and saturated, I’ve had my fill of the water and decide to take in a sunset on the “desert” side. A few minutes farther south is Valle de los Gigantes (“Valley of the Giants”). Just like it sounds, you’ll find cactuses up to 60 feet tall — and 300 years old — in these parts. These giants are scattered all over Baja, but it’s neat to see this kind of density. If you have a 4×4 truck like I do, you can explore the rugged trails that weave through the valley. Entry will cost you another $10, but if you paid at the beach and let them know, you might score a free pass.
If you are an early riser, you’ll be stoked on San Felipe’s sunrises, which are nothing short of spectacular. This part of the sea is known for its extreme tides, with low tide going out as far as half a mile and leaving vast stretches of cool patterns in the sand. If you walk out to the shoreline, you’ll find a pod of pelicans huddled on sandbars as seagulls and others birds hover and swoop for feeding time. Be sure to do the stingray shuffle — dragging your feet along the sand — to avoid being stung.
On day two in Baja, my destination is Bahía San Luis Gonzaga (Bahía is Spanish for “bay”). Half the adventure is in the drive — about an hour south, it hugs steep coastline and epic views of deep blue. Six years ago, before the renovation of Hwy. 5, the only way to this bay was a grueling six-hour ride over three mountains, unless you had access to a private plane. I pass through another security checkpoint on this journey, which reminds me again how safe the area is to explore.
El Nido Steakhouse, around since 1985, specializes in — you guessed it, steaks. The dark, candle-lit space feels something like Old México with the furniture and lamps constructed from Cardon cactuses. A hovering guitarist serenades us over soup, skirt steak (cooked over mesquite wood, like everything here) and guacamole. When the bill arrives, I realize this establishment takes cash only — and I’m the same amount short that I tipped the guitar player!
The Malecón really comes alive on weekend nights, bringing the friendly people of México to the streets — tonight it’s Battle of the Bands, Baja-style. Several bands line the drive, equipped with amplifiers and microphones. I end my night here with another cerveza and great people watching and music.
The street behind the Malecón is where I’ll stop on my way home — peruse the shops and street vendors, treat myself to a paleta (a delicious fruit popsicle), and pick up some medicine from the farmacia. (You can find an array of herbs and other natural remedies here, much cheaper than in the U.S.) Mexican blankets are one of my favorite things to collect — great for the beach, camping and even keeping the seats cool in my truck — most of which I’ve found here. You can also find cool pottery, sandals, jewelry and other common Mexican souvenirs (curios).
I head north to home, the same way I came. Border traffic can take up to an hour on the weekends (check http://traffic.calit2.net/border/border-crossing-wait-times-map.php for details). Make sure you have your passport at the U.S. border and that you declare any items (like tequila) that you acquired in México. Mexicali has two crossings, and I find the new one on the east is much quicker.
We’ve only scratched the surface of Baja here — the Pacific side and wine country and ocean adventures are for another road trip — and a future column.
- Have passport and Mexican auto insurance (it’s the law). You can purchase this online (mexicaninsurance.com, aaa.com or bajabound.com) and print before you go.
- Most Pemex gas stations in Mexico are still cash-only (U.S. currency is accepted). Make sure you have cash and top off whenever you can – you’ll be driving long stretches of country road.
- It never hurts to come with a few pesos. You’ll find a currency exchange at the border and can access cash through ATMs around town. Most places do not accept credit cards. Carry small bills for shopping the markets.
- Visit sanfelipe.com.mx for a complete guide to the town.
