With the Fourth of July upon us, I’m reminded of one of my favorite Southern California beach towns, San Diego, where it seems like the weather is always perfect. For Desert Magazine, I explore how each San Diego neighborhood has its own distinct personality.
Road Trip: San Diego
For Southern Californians, a trip to San Diego as a kid probably meant hitting up the beach and the zoo and that place with the killer whales (set them free!). Over the years, visiting friends who call this city home, I have had the opportunity to discover many cool areas that make San Diego one of America’s greatest cities. It’s also got the best year-round weather of any place in the country. I wish my parents had settled here when they moved to California in the ’60s, but I still see myself living here one day.
Getting there from the desert is easy, and you’ve got a few options. I prefer the route across the mountain via Highway 74 and through Temecula. (Old Town Temecula is a great spot to stop for a bite, located right off the 15 freeway, which takes you directly into downtown San Diego.)
What I like most about San Diego is how easily and quickly you can move around to all the different areas — you know, the way Los Angeles used to be! It’s a compact big city that hugs San Diego Bay in the south and Mission Bay in the north.
Next, I take a drive through Balboa Park, adjacent to downtown and the hip neighborhoods of Hillcrest and North Park. This swath of green space — the largest urban park in North America — is home to the famous zoo, as well as museums, a theater and beautiful gardens. There’s always something happening here; come for a cultural experience or just to enjoy the scenery.
If authentic Mexican food sounds good for lunch, head over to Old Town San Diego: It’s got dozens of fun restaurants where ladies make homemade tortillas and you can watch people strolling and shopping the markets. This is the place to see what the city was like back in the 1800s and to experience Mexico’s rich influence on its history. A State Historic Park houses many original structures available for touring. One of these old buildings is the Whaley House, supposedly the most haunted place in the country. Built by Thomas Whaley, it once served as his family’s home, the county courthouse and a commercial theater. Now, I didn’t see any ghosts, but I’ve heard some scary stories.
My next stop is Cabrillo National Monument on the tip of Point Loma. A $10 entrance fee (it’s free for those who hold a National Parks pass) gets you the best view of the city. Located at the entrance to San Diego Bay, the point offers a 360-degree view of San Diego. Past the gate, the road to the right takes me down to the bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean — from here I can hike down to beach and tide pools teeming with marine critters. Back at the top, the road to the left leads to the visitors center, featuring an impressive history museum and auditorium screening a film about the Spanish expedition of Juan Cabrillo, who discovered San Diego, and a gift shop with cool books and artifacts. I also find two hiking trails alongside the bay, one of which takes you up to the Old Point Loma Lighthouse.
At the west end of Shelter Island, the Tiki-style Bali Hai restaurant serves up another amazing view of the city skyline. The two-story, circular structure sits right on the water, so you can watch the boats go by; come at dinner and you’ll catch the sunset over the skyscrapers. Nearby are a few cool hotels, like the Kona Kai and Humphreys. The latter was built in classic Polynesian architecture and houses a live music venue on the marina side.
Another must-stop while in San Diego is Ocean Beach (“OB” to locals). This classic beach town is marked by an iconic pier and locally owned cafes, bars and shops. I’ve come for a stroll in the sand and to sample some tacos from South Beach Bar & Grille (go with the “famous” marinated mahimahi option) and Mike’s Taco Club across the street (hands down the best octopus taco I’ve ever tasted). Both spots offer patio seating, but for the real view, take a seat on the upstairs deck at South Beach, offering a sweeping view of the beach. If you need more than a day here, check into the Ocean Beach Hotel, sitting right across the way and featuring the same epic views.
On my way out of town, I pay a stop at an old-school joint called the Red Fox Steakhouse and Piano Bar, recommended by a friend. Now, this is my kind of place — red leather booths, dark wood paneling, classic dishes and a piano bar bring me back a few decades.
There is always more to discover about the places we think we know — and this gem is just another road trip away!
