Barbecue and Wine, Santa Maria Style on the Central Coast

One of my favorite under-the-radar Southern California is the amazing open oak “Santa Maria” barbecue style of the Central Coast. This month for Desert Magazine, I hit up Jalama, Pismo Beach to Buellton and beyond for some of the best wine, tri-tip, and relaxation the region has to offer.

WINE AND DINE ON THE CENTRAL COAST

This month, I head north to the central coast of California for some exploring, eating and drinking (not while driving!). Fall is a beautiful time of year to visit this unique part of California, about 30 minutes north of Santa Barbara. The inspiration for this road trip? A visit to a friend who moved up there to make wine, and then to a hotel owned by some other friends.

With the Pacific Ocean in my rearview, the 101 takes a turn into the rolling hills through a couple of tunnels, and just like that, the entire landscape changes. Grassy mountains, cattle ranches and oak trees line the highway, giving this part of California its own feel.

Back on the road north toward Lompoc, my next stop is La Purisima Mission State Historical Park.

California Mission

I love the California missions, and this one is far and away my favorite. Founded in 1787, the mission was home to the Chumash Indians and Spanish settlers. Now a state park, it has been restored over the past 80 years. You can walk into most of the buildings and really get a feel of what is was like to live and work there in the early 1800s. The hacienda, barracks and huge looms in the weaving room were my personal favorites. Even the surrounding grounds and paths around the mission are dirt trails and very rustic. They have about 25 miles of hiking trails, an excellent visitor center and a gift shop that offers guided tours and demonstrations of life at the mission. I honestly can’t wait to go back and explore more.

For an off-the-beaten-path side trip, make your way west to the coast to the Rancho Guadalupe Dunes Preserve. These dunes stretch 18 miles north to Pismo Beach. This area is great for sunsets, hiking, and bird and whale watching. The 1923 film “The Ten Commandments” was shot here and the sets were buried in the dunes. Several artifacts have been found over the years, and you can check out pieces of a full-size sphinx in the Dunes Center museum.

There are a few things I’ve learned about what makes this barbecue unique to California. First, the way it is cooked: over an open flame of native coastal oak or “red oak” on an iron grate that can be raised or lowered over the fire, just like the rancheros did back in the day. Second is the meat: tri-tip is preferred but all steaks prepared this way work, seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic salt. Next on the essentials list is the bowl of pinquito beans – grown in the region, they’re a cross between a pink and white bean – and a bowl of salsa, not spicy. Every place I went to (and I went to a few!) had its own recipe, plus a loaf of French bread. And that is Santa Maria barbecue!

Places that are a must try: Shaw’s Steakhouse for the tri-tip sandwich; Jocko’s in Nipomo for an old-school meal that includes salad, garlic bread, steak (or whatever), baked potato, and either bread pudding or a scoop of sherbet, all for about $30. And then there is The Hitching Post in Casmalia, a real cowboy joint, or The Hitching Post II in Buellton for their own great wines and grilled artichokes. Finally, the Far West Tavern in Orcutt offers an upscale menu with prosciutto wrapped jalapenos. There are several more places along the central coast, from Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo, to try this specialty, and I am pretty sure you will be back for more.

Shaw’s Steakhouse

Los Alamos is a few exits north of Buellton, and I have always driven right past it not knowing what awesomeness was hiding there. A left off the highway takes you to the main street lined with great cafes, bakeries, antique stores and some excellent restaurants, plus a few wine tasting rooms. A few years ago, I met some friends of friends who buy old motels and revamp them – also known as Shelter Social Club – and they had just acquired the Alamo Motel. Well, I finally got to visit and it is a very cool place to stay and hang out. On the weekends, they often host live music or events on the property.

Buellton has always been a classic 101 stop for those heading north or to nearby Solvang and is, of course, home to Pea Soup Andersen’s.

Pea Soup Andersen’s

Some of my earliest memories of trips with my family include this place, and I still love split pea soup to this day. I stopped during breakfast for nostalgia’s sake and discovered they have a great gift shop full of local food products, maps and books. The food was great and I picked up a map of local wineries. Buellton is a perfect jumping off point to explore dozens of wineries, big and small, located to the east of town. The beautiful two-lane road between Santa Maria and Los Olivos takes you past cattle ranches, farms and vineyards that make it worth the drive.

The co-op of boutique wineries is located behind each roll-up door. I always enjoy my time with Scott, surrounded by racks and stacks of oak barrels aging to the sounds of jazz or punk rock, tasting wine and learning how it’s actually done. His passion for what he is doing always inspires me to do the same. Each year, and bottle by bottle, he gets to keep on going. Scott opens his establishment for private tastings by appointment. If you’re in the market for some wine, I recommend stopping by.

I can’t go without mentioning Solvang. I do enjoy a drive by when I am in the area. This small city was settled by a group of Danes in 1911, far from Midwest winters. There are several restaurants, bakeries and stores all offering a taste of Denmark right here in California. Plus, there are many places to stay, from big chains to B&Bs, but my favorite is another property by Shelter Social Club: a cool motel called Hamlet Inn. One thing not to miss is an order of aebleskiver. These are kind of like a pancake shaped into a ball then cooked on a special cast iron pan. They’re light and fluffy and usually covered in lingonberry jam and powdered sugar. I love them and I always get them. I even try to get them when I’m on tour in Denmark, but I am told they are just a Christmas treat. I guess it’s Christmas all year in Solvang! Best of all, it’s just a road trip away!