Baja is one of my favorite road trips, and I go down there about once a month. While I generally prefer the more remote spots, this time I explore the more popular areas. This trip takes us to Ensenada, just over an hour from San Diego. It’s a cruise ship destination, the birthplace of the margarita (so I’ve been told) and home of the famed Baja 1000 off-road race. It’s also where some of the world’s most amazing seafood is harvested.

Heading south on Interstate 5 from San Diego, the last U.S.A. exit quickly approaches as I head into the Tijuana border crossing. I’ve got my passport and a copy of my Mexican auto insurance (try AAA and bajabound.com) in the glove box. It is the law in Mexico to carry insurance, and it costs about $20 a day. Past the border, I follow the signs to Ensenada Scenic Highway and head up the hill along the international border. Over the hill, make sure to stay in the right lane, as the right turn toward the Tijuana beaches comes up quickly.

Soon we enter the cuota (toll) road to Ensenada. At only $2 per car, it’s the best way to get to Ensenada.

About 20 minutes from the border, my first stop is lunch at El Nido Steakhouse in Rosarito Beach, one of my all-time favorite places to eat in Baja. As I walk in, there’s a woman making homemade flour tortillas at a comal, where all of the meats are cooked over mesquite wood. The rustic garden setting is as sweet as the food, and the prices can’t be beat. This is a good place to stop if you’re cruising down after work on a Friday, since it’s open until midnight.

The route to Ensenada is a beautiful four-lane highway that hugs the coast all the way down. I see several small hotels, condos and vacation home communities — and it’s easy to see why. The scenery is beautiful and the prices are about a quarter of what they’d be in California.

As I arrive in downtown, I follow the seaport and make a left at the tallest Mexican flag I have ever seen. I check into Hotel Posada El Rey Sol, a colonial-style, family-run boutique hotel in the perfect location for exploring the city by foot. I’ll stay here for a night, but another place I recommend is Casa del Sol: Depending on the weekend, you can score rates between $60 and $100 a night.

Strolling for a cup of coffee, I discover an artisan chocolate shop called Maya Cacao that makes everything in-house and gives classes, too. I opt for a hot chocolate instead of my caffeine fix, and walk around town.

Dinner tonight is at Manzanilla (Spanish for “little apple”), one of the finer restaurants on the peninsula and situated in a converted warehouse on the wharf, that serves up Baja med cuisine — I can’t wait to dive into some fresh local oysters and other seafood favorites. I wash it down with wines from nearby Guadalupe Valley.

I enjoy a nice walk back to the hotel, where I turn in early in preparation for tomorrow’s adventure.

Around the hotel are many coffeehouses and bakeries and eateries to choose from. (This main shopping street, Avenue Adolfo Lopez Mateo, is also full of art galleries and curio shops and other fun curiosities.) My breakfast this morning is across the street at the oldest French restaurant (1947) on the peninsula, and is included with my hotel fee. An order of El Rey Sol’s squid chorizo, cappuccino and basket of French pastries is the way to start this day off right.

My excursion today is perhaps Ensenada’s most famous tourist stop: La Bufadora, a marine geyser that is the result of air trapped in a sea cave. The blowhole sprays 80 feet high along the coast of the Punta Banda Peninsula. The drive here alone is worth the visit. About 45 minutes from the city, the south end of the bay offers sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. Tamale highway is my name for this road, as you pass several roadside tamale stands with their steaming pots — perfect for a road-stop snack.

I park near the blowhole, where a man collects $2 from me, and stroll down for a closer look.

The street leading to the viewpoint is lined with dozens of souvenir shops, bars and seafood spots. If you don’t stop for tamales, definitely try the grilled Pismo clams. For a couple of bucks, you’ll get a heap of clams under shrimp, onions, tomato and bubbling cheese.

On the way back from the blowhole, I check into the Hotel Coral Marina, where I come to relax before a sunset dinner. It’s about five minutes north of town, by car. Every room of this beautifully renovated hotel offers a view of the marina and bay. If you’re looking for a luxe destination — complete with a spa, gym and the works — this is your place.

My excursion today is perhaps Ensenada’s most famous tourist stop: La Bufadora, a marine geyser that is the result of air trapped in a sea cave. The blowhole sprays 80 feet high along the coast of the Punta Banda Peninsula. The drive here alone is worth the visit. About 45 minutes from the city, the south end of the bay offers sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. Tamale highway is my name for this road, as you pass several roadside tamale stands with their steaming pots — perfect for a road-stop snack.

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Ensenada: Food's amazing, locals are welcoming